Choosing Your First Helicopter: Demystifying your options
By Greg Gimlick | Photos by Greg Gimlick | [email protected]
As seen in the SUMMER 2019 issue of Park Pilot
Ask 10 people what the best helicopter is for learning how to fly, and you’ll probably get 10 different answers. Let’s say it’s 11 now that I’m weighing in too! When I’m done, you still might not have an exact answer, but you will be armed with enough information to make an educated choice. Chances are that you’re going to use more than one by the time you’ve mastered the art of helicopter flying.
The Choices: Helicopters fall into multiple categories. I’m going to disregard what I consider “toys” because they don’t offer the replacement parts and quality of hobby-grade products. Toys are what you see during the holidays at mall kiosks with dedicated radios and batteries that only fi t one particular helicopter.
The helis I’ll cover are all hobby grade and are available through retailers or online with technical support and parts availability. I don’t want to scare you, but having spare parts is a biggie when learning to fly.
With that established, we have certain options for types of helis: coaxial, fixed pitch, and collective pitch. Each aircraft has its pluses and minuses, but I’ll work through that. You will find people who swear there is only one way to do it and anything else is a waste of time. Although everyone is entitled to an opinion, these are the people I stay away from for advice, and you might want to as well.
Within these categories, you might also find some interesting options that can or cannot be utilized. Various manufacturers use electronically programmed features that offer autorecovery, autohover, and variants of those. These features can be a real plus, or, according to some, a hindrance to the learning process. I’ll leave that up to you, but I will discuss them.
The Instruction Process: I spent my Army career as a helicopter instructor pilot, which might prove my initial instructor correct when he swore he could teach a monkey to fl y. I found learning to fl y the full-scale helis easier than when I taught myself to fl y RC helicopters. There’s something about sitting in one that just makes things feel more connected—because they are! Learning to fl y RC helicopters is challenging and rewarding, so don’t be put off by the naysayers and pitfalls along the way.
One of the basic principles of instruction that I learned was that no two people learn exactly the same way or at the same pace. Some seem to be able to fl y anything they touch, and others work at it. If you are fortunate enough to find someone to teach you, make sure that person is willing to observe and offer suggestions, not edicts.
You want an instructor who is willing to adjust his or her teaching methods to suit your requirements. Be flexible and listen to suggestions, but also question things you don’t understand. An instructor can’t help if he or she doesn’t know you’re hung up on something. Be open and listen. The Army used to tell us, “remain rigidly flexible.” That doesn’t make a lot of sense, but at the same time, it makes sense—sort of like a helicopter.
Controls Defined: Here’s how one instructor defined the control systems during my initial flight training classroom period: “go/whoa stick,” “up/down stick,” and “spin stoppers.” Talk about taking it to the most basic level! It must have worked because more than 40 years later, I still remember them. More correctly, they are:
Cyclic Control (go/whoa stick): This is the right stick on your radio and it controls pitch and roll. You push it forward to go and pull it back to whoa, hence the instructor’s nickname for it. If you apply right cyclic, the heli will bank right, and left cyclic will bank it left. In a conventional helicopter, the swashplate will tilt, causing directional change.
Collective Control (up/down stick): as the name implies, this control raises and lowers the swashplate, changing the pitch of all blades simultaneously. Pull the collective up and the helicopter rises, push it down and it descends. This is the left stick on your radio. It also controls the throttle, but more on that later.
Antitorque (spin stoppers): These are the antitorque pedals in a full-scale helicopter that control the pitch of the tail-rotor blades to counteract the torque of the main-rotor system. Coaxial aircraft don’t require them because the counter-rotating blades cancel each other’s torque. On a conventional heli, the tail rotor is controlled by the left stick with right and left movement and adjusted every time power is changed, affecting the torque produced by the main rotor.
Coaxial Helis: These aircraft are often confused with toys because so many of the mall toys are coaxial designs. The ones I’ll cover are of higher quality and offer parts, etc. A coaxial machine is one with two counter-rotating blade systems on the main shaft. They are each driven by a separate motor controlled by a control board. Each motor drives a shaft, one inside the other, up to its respective rotor.
The throttle controls climbing and descending as it speeds up both rotor systems at the same time. There is no collective pitch on a coaxial machine. Directional changes are managed by adjusting the speed of one or both rotor systems. As one slows, the other produces more torque and causes the nose to turn.
If you use the left stick like a tail-rotor control, the heli will remain stationary and rotate around its vertical axis as though you did a pedal turn. As you center the left stick, the speeds of the two systems match and the turn stops. In flight, the cyclic stick will tilt the swashplate on the lower blade and cause it to bank, etc.
Fixed-Pitch Helis: These helicopters look like “normal,” single-rotor helis with tail-rotor systems. As the name implies, the pitch of the main-rotor system is “fixed” so there is no collective raising and lowering of a swashplate to change the main blade’s pitch. Climbing and descending are accomplished by adjusting the throttle and main-rotor speed. As you increase the rpm of the main-rotor system, the helicopter will rise, and decreasing it will cause it to descend. The cyclic control on the right stick is conventional and tilts the swashplate to change pitch and roll.
Collective-Pitch Helis: These single-rotor designs are like full-scale helicopters. They allow a full spectrum of capabilities including full-bore 3D flight. They are the ultimate in aerobatic and dynamically capable machines. These come in flybar and FBL (flybarless) designs. Since FBL has become the industry standard, I’ll focus on those, but there are still flybar machines available and they certainly could be considered.
FBL helicopters have simplified the mechanics significantly and, in the event of a crash, there are fewer parts to replace. Controls are conventional, meaning the throttle/collective is on the left stick in the vertical axis, while the tail-rotor control is the lateral movement of the left stick. Cyclic control is on the right stick.
The electronics on collective-pitch helis have become extremely sophisticated and offer extensive tuning opportunities. With six-axis control units now available, there is no limit to what you can do. These are also the most expensive of the options, but they will allow you to expand your capabilities the furthest.
The Blade 120 S RTF package comes with everything you need to get the fixed-pitch helicopter in the air.
Making A Choice: If you have an instructor helping you, it’s best to choose the helicopter that he or she recommends. If you’re on your own, you might want to begin with a coaxial helicopter to reduce the frustration. Fixed-pitch helis are often sold as the logical first step in the learning process, and they are certainly easier than most collective-pitch machines.
The Blade 130 S collective-pitch helicopter is a BNF, so Greg was able to use his DX9 radio.
Don’t despair if the only thing you have is a collective-pitch model to learn on though—it’s certainly an option that has worked for many. Let’s take a closer look at the possibilities and reasoning behind some choices.
Many RTF packages come with a radio that will only accommodate the machine with which it came. The radios are small in stature but good for the packages.
Coaxial helicopters are inherently stable and will allow you to get used to orientation and control reversal without overcontrolling a more agile machine.
Coaxials: These are inherently stable and will allow you to get used to the orientation and control reversal without frustrating yourself by overcontrolling a more agile machine. Some argue that using a coaxial heli teaches overcontrolling because of its forgiving nature, but I prefer to look at it as a procedural trainer. No, it won’t teach you 3D flying, but the model will help you with your orientation.
The Blade 130 S helicopter uses linear servos and a direct flight control-style head.
I recently helped a young flier who was having an awful time with perspective when the helicopter turned to face nose-in. He got confused to the point that he forgot to control the machine and it would crash. Time after time, he proved he could hover “tail-in,” meaning the nose was away and he was looking at it from behind. As soon as he turned the helicopter sideways or nose-in, he would panic and crash.
The Blade 130 S and 230 S helis share some common parts, such as direct-drive tail motors and blades.
I put his heli away and brought out a coaxial. This removed all of the other things he was working so hard on while trying to adjust to the orientation. In other words, he only had to work on learning the control reversal of the nose-in hover. The helicopter was so stable that it didn’t require all of the other work. After a few sessions of just working on the control reversal issues, he was back to using his regular aircraft.
Don’t discount the benefit of using something that lets you focus on just one problem. If you don’t have access to a coaxial machine, try a flight simulator that offers multiple helicopters. Coaxials are the easiest to fl y and you might develop a couple of bad habits when learning on one, but they have their place in the learning process and bad habits can be corrected.
Fixed-Pitch Helis: These machines closely resemble a “true” helicopter because they employ a standard single-head rotor system and a tail rotor for antitorque. As the name implies, the pitch of the main-rotor system is fixed, meaning it doesn’t change with application of the left stick (throttle/collective). In this case, changing the throttle will change the main rotor rpm and cause the aircraft to ascend or descend. This works because as velocity increases, so does lift in the algebraic formula.
I won’t go down the aerodynamics path here because it’s beyond the scope of the space. Accept that an increase in rpm (velocity of the blades) will cause the lift component to increase and the helicopter will rise. Antitorque is a conventional tail rotor and controlled by lateral movement of the left stick. This is the same as on a collective-pitch helicopter.
The Blade 120 S fixed-pitch helicopter looks great in the air and performs well for a trainer.
This design is much more docile than a collective-pitch machine, which can make it a great choice when choosing a training heli. The control inputs are much the same, but with many of the control challenges removed. The one thing I have never been fond of with fixed-pitch helis is their tendency to balloon with gusts of wind or too much forward speed.
It’s not a problem if you’re aware of it and why it happens, but it does catch many people off guard. A gust of wind or excessive forward speed is the same as increasing the velocity component of the main-rotor system. We know that doing this will cause the lift to increase, giving a corresponding ascent. A future article on some of these oddities in helicopter aerodynamics might be in order.
A fixed-pitch heli’s altitude is controlled by the throttle and a change in rpm. Pitch and roll are controlled by the cyclic on the right stick. Tail-rotor control is lateral on the left stick. Transitioning from fixed-pitch helis to collective-pitch helis is a fairly easy process.
Collective-Pitch Helis: These are the primary types of machines you’ll find at any helicopter meet. Tail-rotor control and cyclic are the same as a fixed-pitch heli, but now the throttle stick is both the throttle and collective. These aircraft are capable of extreme maneuvers because of their rotor-system design and the use of governors, etc. They are also touchier and unforgiving of being over-controlled.
The Blade 230 S version that Greg owns is the night version, but it is structurally the same as the regular one.
At the same time, many insist that this is the kind of heli you should learn on, so you’re trained from the start not to stir the sticks too much (overcontrol). I could argue for both sides, but I prefer to make you aware of the options and arm you to make your own decision. If you are using an instructor and he or she insists on a collective pitch heli, you will probably end up learning that way, but it might not be the easiest. I learned this way without an instructor, so it can be done, but there are easier ways.
Don’t be fooled by the small size of this Blade 130 S. It’s a fully capable 3D, collective-pitch heli.
Because the cyclic- and tail-rotor systems are the same as the fixed-pitch heli, let’s take a look at what’s different.
Collective/Throttle: As the collective/throttle stick is increased, the pitch of the main-rotor system changes. Most are set with negative pitch at low position, neutral at mid-stick, and positive at high position. This is what allows a collective-pitch heli to hover inverted, etc. The rpm of the motor/rotor system is held constant throughout the stick position by a governor within the ESC or through the use of throttle curves that are programmed into the transmitter. This should be set by an instructor until you are comfortable adjusting it yourself.
There are tutorials online showing the relationships and how it all works, but it can be overwhelming for a beginner. If you set it up incorrectly, it’s another thing to hinder your learning curve. If you buy an RTF (Ready to Fly) or BNF (Bind-N-Fly) heli, this will all be set for you in the system, or the manual will show the settings for your transmitter.
RPM: As previously stated, the rpm in the collective-pitch heli will be maintained at a constant rate by the governor. Altitude is changed by the increase or decrease in collective pitch while the motor/blade rpm holds constant. This also helps the aircraft’s stability because there aren’t constant torque changes caused by rpm and pitch changes.
Flight Modes: Collective-pitch helis generally are set up to use three flight modes. The names might vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but most use something like Idle Up, Stunt 1, and Stunt 2. These will be on a switch on the top left of your transmitter. In Idle Up, the throttle will increase the motor’s rpm as the collective/throttle stick is advanced and will vary up to a point. This is generally the most docile mode, but it’s not great for flying around. In the early stages of learning to hover, it’s a good place to stay.
Stunt 1 and Stunt 2 will usually have different rpm settings programmed into the helicopter, along with different pitch settings. When you fl ip the switch to one of these positions, the heli will remain on the ground, but the rpm/rotor system will “spool up” to the programmed speed. It stays on the ground because these modes will also have negative pitch programmed, which keeps the aircraft planted.
After the rpm stabilizes, you can lift off by increasing the collective and changing the pitch of the blades. As it passes through mid-stick, the pitch generally becomes positive and will continue to increase to its programmed maximum.
Throttle Hold/Cut: In our electric helicopters, these are synonymous, and you’ll hear them used interchangeably. In a glow or gas engine, the throttle hold would be used to cause the engine to go to a specified rpm and hold it there in the event of a flight emergency.
Throttle cut would kill the engine completely. In electrics, both kill the motor and changing the throttle stick setting will have no effect. In the event of a crash, it’s used to reduce the possibility of more damage. It’s also an added safety factor when handling an armed helicopter. It is generally assigned to a two- position switch on the top right side of the transmitter toward the back.
FBL Controller: All FBL collective-pitch helicopters employ some sort of control board to offer gyro sensing and correcting action. An experienced instructor can use this to fine-tune a model to be far less responsive than a stock version. Most now use six-axis gyros to sense movement and counteract unwanted inputs. This is not “autopilot” and you will still be flying the heli, but without these units, the workload would be unmanageable.
3D-Capable: None of the other types are capable of this type of flying and, as a beginner, you won’t be trying it. As you learn and advance, these capabilities will help you become a better pilot and master things beyond your dreams. Your instructor will probably tune this capability out of your collective-pitch helicopter as you begin to learn to hover.
Other Considerations: As mentioned at the start, there are some new capabilities that manufacturers have incorporated into the latest helicopters. Some instructors favor them, and others insist that they are of no value. Much will depend upon your situation, and if you are learning without an instructor, they will be useful.
Progressive Flight Modes: This function is referred to as SAFE in the Blade (bladehelis.com) line of aircraft. It offers three modes to help advance through the learning process. Other brands might offer similar programming under different names. Each mode is chosen by a position on the flight-mode switch and is defined as:
• Stability Mode: Limited flight envelope with self-leveling and bank angle limit. • Agility Mode: Full control for sport aerobatics with no bank angle limit. • 3D Mode: Turns up the flip-and-roll rate for 3D capability.
These features greatly enhance the chances of success when learning to fly, and I recommend looking for a machine with these or similar programs.
Bailout or Panic Recovery: This function is assigned to a momentary switch. When activated, it will level the heli and stabilize it in either a hover or slow forward flight, depending upon the manufacturer’s programming.
In high-end units, it will stabilize in whichever orientation is the closest to the time it’s activated. This means that if you’re closer to being inverted when you hit the switch, it will stabilize in an inverted hover. For a beginner, that might lead to the next challenge, but now what? Most entry-level collective-pitch helis with this function will stabilize upright.
Tech Support: This might be in the form of your local hobby shop, club, or online. Places such as HeliDirect (helidirect.com), Tower Hobbies (towerhobbies.com), and Horizon Hobby (horizonhobby.com) all offer tech support and parts. Try to steer clear of a helicopter that has no support to back it up.
Time: Be patient and go slowly. In the beginning, we are easily overloaded, which leads to fatigue sooner than an experienced pilot would experience it. Keep your training sessions short, rest between them, and try again. Don’t overload yourself with pressure to master it quickly. Regular short training sessions prove more beneficial than marathons.
Simulators: Simulators can save you a lot of time and money, but you have to treat them like a real training tool and not a game. Perform the same routine you would at the field with your helicopter.
Radio: Do you have a radio? Many of these helis come as an RTF with a radio or as a BNF if you already have a radio. Not all RTF packages include a radio that will accommodate more than one helicopter. I prefer a standalone radio with multiple memories to cover everything I might get, but it’s not a necessity while you are learning.
Online Resources: There are some good online resources for beginners. Two of my favorites are John Salt’s RC Helicopter Fun (rchelicopterfun.com) and Dave Scott’s 1st U.S. R/C Flight School (rcflightschool.com). Both websites offer great training books and advice.
My Recommendations for Training Helis: There is no shortage of options available, but in my opinion, you can’t go wrong with one of these choices:
• Coaxial: Blade mCX2 RTF • Fixed-pitch: Blade 120 S RTF with SAFE technology • Collective pitch: Blade 130 S RTF with SAFE technology or Blade 230 V2 BNF Basic with SAFE technology.
Final Word: If you want to fly helicopters, do it! The days are gone when it was almost impossible to learn to fl y without an instructor. It’s always easier to have one, but if you follow my suggestions and go slowly, it can be done. I’m proof of that.
After you learn to fly, it’s fun to do so at night.
